I Was Nine Weeks Old When I Understood Butter

I was nine weeks old when I first understood butter. It sat on a saucer on my grandmother’s windowsill, a yellow sun in a blue dish, and I climbed the curtain to reach it. I fell. I tasted it. I was changed.

Everything I have cooked since, from the 14 course tasting menu at Le Saumon to the dainty tuna tartare at Trattoria Whisker, has been an attempt to return to that saucer. I am Chef Beauregard ‘Beau’ Pawsworth, and this is the story of a life spent at the stove, hungry, haunted and eventually star adjacent.