The foam has been mocked for a decade. Critics sneer at the airy spoonful, calling it a bath on a plate. I say they have misunderstood. Foam is simply a sauce that has learned to float.
At Le Saumon, our signature foam is made of smoked salmon stock and lecithin, whipped to the density of a thought. It costs us 6 treats a portion and delights about 80 percent of guests. The other 20 percent are asked, politely, to eat it anyway. I once threw a food critic out for calling my foam ‘spit.’ The incident was reported in the press and was, I will admit, excellent for business.
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