With the leaves turning and the evenings darkening, we introduce the autumn tasting menu at Le Saumon: eleven courses, ninety minutes and a deep sense of loss. It opens with a chilled pumpkin consommé served in a teacup and ends with a bonito tart that tastes like a long goodbye.
Highlights include a seared scallop on a bed of smoked chestnut, a dish called Memory of Rain and a cheese course so aggressive that we provide a lie down room. The menu costs 142 treats per head, or 210 with the pairing. Reservations are open until the end of the year, with a waiting list that now stretches to 2029.
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