Why My Kitchen Smells of Anchovy

Visitors to my kitchens often ask about the smell. It is not the fish; it is the anchovy, and it is deliberate. A single anchovy, melted into oil, gives a dish a secret depth, a hidden hum, a note you cannot name.

I use it in everything: the tomato sauce, the stew, the dressing, the bread. Guests who claim to dislike anchovies have eaten them for years without knowing. I find it gratifying. The aroma, which lingers, is said to have attracted 14 strays to our back door since August, and I have employed them all. Their loyalty is unmatched, and their sense of timing impeccable.